This time

So back at the airport. Again.

Too early for Check-in. Again.

Oh well, a new day.


We head up to the mezanine in T2 where there are a couple of restaurants, and have breakfast.

We are first in line when the Air New Zealand counters open.

While we're waiting, we saw a crew for Aeroflot checking in. Very bright uniforms.

This was on the counter. I have no idea what it says. Maybe I missed the chance to win a trip to New Zealand.

I may never know.
















We got some good economy seats, with the chance of better seats at the gate.
At least now we can go through Avseco and Customs. Having done a couple of laps of the checkin hall, there is nothing left to see here.

Through the formalities, there are shops in both directions. Being a Koru member, I have access to the China Airlines lounge, so we head on upstairs to that. A relaxed sit down and a juice is just what the doctor ordered.

We then set off to look at the shops.

Lots of souvenirs. Tea, silk, biscuits.
Sarah is looking in a silk shop at some tops, so I wander around a bit.
Lo and behold, at the other end of that same shop, is a table with slippers.
You guessed it, they are exactly the ones Sarah has been looking for all over Bangkok, Hanoi and Hong Kong. And yes, the same ones we saw at the gardens yesterday when we didn't bother taking cash.

So she comes on over, and finds herself a few pairs to buy. At last!

Heading towards our gate, we see the crew coming. I recognise the vice-captain, who is from Christchurch. We have a quick chat, until he has to catch up with the rest of the Flight Crew.
Then the Cabin Crew come through, and I recognise one hostie also from Christchurch.

I find out later that only NZ based Tech and ISMs do this flight. The rest of the cabin crew is Shanghai based.

Just before boarding, I go up to the gate staff, and they have new seats for us. Nice.

To be honest, I have never been a fan of Air New Zealand's business class seats, in their herringbone configuration. Very insular. Not really geared for couples conversation. Do you sit in the same 'row' face each other feet to feet and talk across the aisle, or adjascent rows so that one gets a sore neck turning to talk over their shoulder?
But then, they are called BUSINESS class, after all. I guess the demographic is the single travelling businessman. Either that or couples happy to spend a few hours close but not talking.

Let me clarify this criticism, because it is just a personal thing.

The business class seat is very cleverly designed. The footstool that I use to recline for the flight, can be used for somebody to sit on while visiting. In fact, with your meal tray in place, you can sit up, while the wife (or hubby) parks opposite you at the same 'table', on the stool. A very practical way for a couple to share a meal.
Also, the seats do not fully recline to the famous 'flat-bed' that other airlines trumpet. To get your flat-bed, you need to stand up, hit the button so that your seat back flips forward to create a fully flat bed. One of the cabin crew now materializes with a duvet and pillow.

So my criticism is that I have to make a decision to change my position:
I must decide to go and sit with Sarah to eat, or I must decide to go to bed.
I prefer the old-style business class seats, where we are side-by-side. We can chat whenever we like, during a movie or during a meal. I can also recline as far as I want, while still watching my movie.
The big thing is that I may just nod off whenever I need to. I don't need to make the decision to 'go to bed', in the old style seats.
Yes I know you can move the screen around to watch while 'in bed'. But that's not the point.
The more I write this, the more petty it seems. Let's just finish with this. I love how clever the Air New Zealand Business Premier seats are. I love all of the features and nooks and crannies that are within reach, even when I forget where I put the bottle of water. But I also like to be able to glance over and see Sarah's pretty face while she sleeps.

And drools onto her new blouse. Hilarious!

This was going to be a fairly long flight, and I was very grateful to be parked up the sharp end.

Since I last traveled at this end of the bus, there have been improvements.
The seat seems more padded, along with the mattress. The inflight kit is really nice. It wasn't for a long time. Ive always liked our Inflight entertainment system, and this is even better. Better than any other carrier I've traveled on. Ever.

It's often the simple things that entertain me. One thing that makes me smile with the Air New Zealand IFE, is the map.
Traditionally, and still on most aircraft around the world, the map was a clunky, lo-res image, that would scroll through perhaps 3-4 screens. World, closer to the aircraft, then speed, time and altitude.
On the Air New Zealand map, it's like using google maps on an iPad. See the plane? Then just zoom in with your fingers.
I think the trick is that the screens on Air New Zealand aircraft are not only better resolution, but the touch control is as sensitive as an iPad. The old system would be touch screen, but only just. How often do you tap the onscreen button to do something, only to wait to see if it registered? Hit it a few more times to get a reaction, and the system will just as likely crash as respond.

Anyway, the flight back home was not only a huge relief after last night, but also a very comfortable and impressive experience. It helps that I could alleviate the age old 'numb bum' issue by spending the entire flight with my seat reclined and my feet up. The only exception to this was when dinner was served.

The crew is great. The Shanghai-based staff were very attentive and friendly. Both ISMs stopped by for a chat. Not only Beverley from Christchurch, but the senior ISM wanted to chat with Sarah about our tour experiences. She is planning to bring her teenagers to China. She already knows Shanghai well, but was interested in how to do the rest. Wendy Wu and our friend Ricky got glowing reports.

Also, Murray the vice-captain came back for a chat. He was amused by our 'adventure' last night.

Sure, it doesn't hurt that I know two of the staff onboard, but the reality is that all of the staff, unlike so many crews on so many airlines, went out of their way to be friendly and helpful.

Too often, crews over time have tended to forget why they entered the industry. They have forgotten that a 12hr flight may be a once-in-a-lifetime experience for many, or even a once-a-year holiday for the more fortunate. Every element of every flight will impact, layer upon layer, the collective experience of each passenger. For many crew members, however, it's just another day at the office.
Because of all of that, when you hit the crew button at hour seven to get a drink, nothing. No answer.

Too many have deserved the title of "Marie Celeste Airways", for going hours with no visible crew.

But that's not this flight. That's not this crew. We had probably the best long-haul experience we've ever had. And we've had a few over the years.

Last day in Shanghai, Part Deux

We survived the night, and went down to breakfast.

Its a buffet, and consists of congee and steamed buns.
Not hungry.

We wait in the foyer for our shuttle. I have wifi access, so can use the translator on my phone.

Fun fact:

• Google is website non grata in China. 
• As a result, Google translator won't work.
• There are many translators in the app store.
• Many of them use Google translator to do the heavy lifting.
• Best look into what drives you translator of choice before parachuting behind the lines.

Using my Chinese government-approved translator, I asked the reception staff to get us on the next shuttle. They told me we had booked the 1000 shuttle. It was about 0600. We are asked to wait.

In the foyer is a sign about shuttle services to Shanghai Disneyland. We must be close.

We saw what may have been the hotel shuttle pull up, and the driver came in and headed in for breakfast.

A while later, he comes out, followed by a couple of tourists. They get into the van. I look at reception. Nothing.

I go up to reception and show them my translator.

"Is that the shuttle?"

"OH!!!!" She trots off and catches the driver as he's about to drive off. 

We get our ride to the airport. T2. Air New Zealand.

Just One Night

While we toyed with the idea of flying to Singapore at midnight, we went to terminal 2, where SQ and NZ fly from.

Terminals 1 and 2 are huge, and sit in parallel, perhaps 2 km apart. between them is a hotel. There is no clear signage, but we eventually found the walkway to the hotel, so off we go.

A long walk later, we come to the lifts to the hotel. Staff at the lift say the hotel is full, but that shopfront over there will find you another. Sarah has a bad feeling, but we don't have a lot of choices.

They show us a nearby hotel that offers breakfast and wifi, for 988 yan for the night. Its's called Lavande, and we haven't heard of it. We decide to go with it anyway.

We pays the money and are directed to a van to take us to the hotel. Maybe it won't be so bad after all.

Into the van with a few others, and soon we are on the road. I remember thinking as we drove away from the airport, that we should have been sitting comfortably in our seat onboard as the aircraft pushed back, right about that time. Ah well.

We pull up, and are directed into the foyer.

Sarah makes a comment to me. THIS IS NOT THE HOTEL WE PAID FOR

We try to talk to the receptionist but she doesn't speak English.
You may recall that I chose not to get a sim or go roaming at the beginning of this trip, right?
Right about now I'm reconsidering the value of that saving.

Luckily, the receptionist has a translator on her phone, so we begin an awkward back and forth trying to communicate our issues.
Sarah is quite clear.
   THIS IS NOT THE HOTEL WE PAID FOR
   THIS IS NOT THE HOTEL WE PAID FOR
   THIS IS NOT THE HOTEL WE PAID FOR

We need to go back to the airport. We need to go back to where everything went sideways, and get it fixed.
She was telling us that the room was non-refundable, and that we would have to pay for our own taxi back to the airport.
Eventually, we made her understand that this wasn't just us not liking the hotel we paid for. She told me that a room in this hotel costs 288 yuan. I told her that we paid 988 yuan for another hotel. Sarah remembered the name of the hotel we paid for, and showed it to the receptionist.
She said the Lavande in a different town. Oh goody.

We took a time out, and wanted food. Sarah gets grumpy when she's hungry.
You know that line in The Incredible Hulk where Banner says "You won't like ne when I'm angry"?

Well, that's Sarah when she's hungry.

Next door was a restaurant, so we go in and try to order a quick meal. The cooks have finished, so that's not going to happen. Oh dear!!

Back to the 'hotel'.
The receptionist tells me, via the phone, to please wait. The shuttle will be here soon.

OK, so at last she understood, and we would be going back to that shopfront in the hotel basement who took our money.

In a few minutes, a driver arrived, and ushered us and our luggage into his van.

Can you imagine, its about 9pm, in what looks like a rural area near Shanghai airport. We're in a van, with a driver who doesn't speak English, and we have no idea where he's taking us. That last intersection had a sign to the airport, and we didn't turn.
I'd call this a 4.3 on the sphyncter scale.

After five minutes of angsting, we turn into the carpark of ... The Lavande!!

We were not expecting that.

Huge relief.

OK so we eventually arrive at the right hotel, and check in.
We never got to go up and see what the room was like in the 288 yuan hotel, but the 988 yuan hotel is not very flash. Beyond tired.

Complementary slippers, water, tissues and condoms

This place at least has a restaurant, and its still open. Sarah gets some food. Crisis averted.

Shanghai Airport

Qantas leaves from Terminal 1, so that's where we go.

Unsurprisingly, we were too early for check-in, so we explored.

We knew there were a few spare seats in all classes on the SHA-SYD flight, so were relaxed about our evening.

When check-in opened, we did our thing, and were put on stsndby. Another hour of loitering, and we went back for our seats.

"Sorry but we are not onloading any staff tonight"

Apparently dodgy weather in Sydney means extra fuel. Suddenly no spare seats. Bugger.

We think about getting tickets to Singapore, and spending a few days with Sarah's sister.
That doesn't pan out, so I ring home office, to see what the Air New Zealand flight is like tomorrow afternoon. Wide open, cool.

Next step is to find a room for the night.
It'll take too long to go back into the city, so lets look nearby.

Just to be clear. This is the point when it all started turning to shit. Just saying...

Last day in Shanghai

I mentioned before that hotel check-out in this country seems to be 1200. That's very generous, when most countries it's 1000.

As our flight out was leaving at 2000 tonight, our pickup was booked for about 1530. We expect to be sitting on our hands at the airport, but we may get lucky.

With that in mind, I asked reception for a late check-out. They offered 1400, so we had a very leisurely morning.

We get picked up by another Buik. Looks the same as the one that dropped us at this hotel 2 days ago, but it was a different provider. Obviously, this is a popular car in the people-moving business in Shanghai.
I think it seats about 7 or 9 in comfort.

In Beijing, the VW was a very popular car, and we did see many European cars in both cities. Xi'an was a little behind them, but there were still a few nice cars on the road.

We did notice that all vehicles on the road are quite modern. I asked Ricky about this in Beijing. He didn't know of any legal limitation like Singapore, but did suggest that the testing process may be too rigorous for older vehicles. Just another preconception about China getting blown out of the water, thanks.
As mentioned earlier, our standard point of reference when thinking about anything approaching a 3rd world country, will always be Bangladesh. We have been there a lot, and it really is the poster child for the 3rd world. Sorry.

Anyway, the testing regimen for seeing if a bus is sturdy enough to be safe on the streets of Dhaka, seems to be tipping it off a cliff. If it survived the fall, it is good for the road.
Anybody who has been there will agree that all buses, new and old, do not have a single panel in factory condition. Beaten. Battered. Rusty. And that's the newer ones.

Day Tour

After lunch, we were ready for a quick once over of Shanghai.

As I said at the beginning, all the stuff people want to see is either in Beijing or Xi'an.
The only thing I had heard about in Shanghai was Disneyland. It didn't take much research to realise that Disney would be over-run with queues up the wazoo. Talk about free Chinese massage!!

Avoid!

Figured a quick tour would catch the high points before we head home tomorrow.

We get picked up by Frank (another traditional name) and his driver, and we are off.

First on the agenda was an area with traditional townhouses converted into a modern area overflowing with upscale cafes and restaurants.

Oh yes. That's Frank

This area rolls into the French Quarter.

It is really cool!
We may have been a tad hasty. If we came back to Shanghai, I would definitely stay in this area. Lunch and dinner in a different cafe every day. Such a beautiful restoration. Impressive.

Oh look. Bikes in China!

The yellow ones are the rentals. Unlock with the app, and ride off.

Like I said, they are very advanced in many areas.

Next stop was a garden in the middle of the city.

 Bit of a hike through some very old buildings

 The further in you get, the more people.

Free Chinese Massage

Crazy zig-zag bridge into the garden.

Made it! And this is just the entrance...

 Beautifully tranquil.

You don't even notice all the people in this place.

Just beautifully done

Remember what I said a while ago about tours? There is always shopping.
Guess what? Sarah forgot this simple rule. Somehow we thought that this would be a drive around the city, looking at views and buildings. Somehow we thought that we wouldn't be getting out of the van for the four hours, so didn't bring any cash. Amateurs!!

In the middle of the garden is a quaint little souvenir shop with lots of good quality products.
It seems that government-run venues have the good souvenirs. Outside on the streets is where you find the crap.

There is some kind of irony that the Chinese government is struggling to reduce the manufacture of knock-off souvenirs, while the rest of the world sees China as the knock-off capital of the world.

So having elected not bring cash, we find a few things we may have bought.
There is a guy there who does amazingly detailed landscapes with his fingers. No brushes, just skin and fingernails. We watched him for a while. His pictures are pretty reasonably priced too.

And then there are the slippers!

A few years ago, Sarah found some cute silk slippers in the MBK market in Bangkok.
In Stanley market in Hong Kong, she found some more.
Next time we went back to Bangkok, she found the same stall and got another couple of pairs.

Sounds like a lot, right? But like the scarves, she gives them as presents. And she wears them almost every day around the house.

Anyway, on our next Bangkok visit, no stall, and no Chinese silk slippers to be found.
And so it went on. Every possible silk shop we went past anywhere in Asia, she would have a look.
No luck.

And then, in this shop, where we have no cash, we see some. Bugger!!

So we go back to the van, Sarah cursing and me chuckling.
Now I know that sounds unkind, but to be fair, its a rare opportunity.
Anybody who knows Sarah, will know that she doesn't make mistakes.
Human or otherwise.

So when I get the chance to say "I told you so", even when I didn't? Gold.

After this garden, we go to look at The Bund.
We are staying over the river, so Frank takes us to the other side of the river, on the old side.
There are some beautiful buildings on this side, counterpoint to the sky-hugging edifices on the new side. While we are on the waterfront, Frank takes us to a pearl wholesaler, who has some jewelry to show us. Sorry not interested in pearl jewelry, but there are some beautiful pieces there.

He wanted to take us to a tea ceremony and a jade outlet, but we did that in Beijing.

As we were the only occupants of this afternoons tour, we finished early.

So that is Shanghai.
We surprised ourselves, and really liked it. I think we will come back.